Thursday, May 29, 2014

Day 13 – Suzhou – The Final Post

Today isn’t quite our last day, but tomorrow is a free day, with just a river cruise in the evening and then we head to the airport first thing on Saturday, so this is my final post for this blog.  Wow what an action packed and educational two weeks it’s been.

Today we are off to Suzhou, and small city of 6.4 million people about 100ks, or half an hour’s train ride from Shanghai.  We took the Maglev train in from the airport and hit 301kph, but this is just a fast train, which isn’t as fast.  Well, actually, let’s not split hairs, but we were doing 276kph on the outward trip and 289kph on the return journey.  The ticket for the journey costs about $8 each way, which sounded pretty good value to me.

Suzhou, although a big city, didn’t feel very big, and we never saw much traffic in the times were were travelling.  The city has experienced phenomenal growth over the last 25-30 years, going from a city of about half a million, to the 6.4 million inhabitants today.  The itinerary for the day was visit one of the city’s famous gardens, go to a silk factory (again), have lunch, go on a canal trip (SuZhou is known as the Venice of the East), and then go to the Embroidery Research Institute.  The day was a bit of a re-hash of stuff we had done before, so there was nothing that was going to get us too enthused, other than the train ride.  We’ve been to gardens many times, had seen the whole silk process in Beijing, and Venice is under no threat from this particular canal.  We were pleased to see a boat doing rubbish collections on the canal, and the number of apartments and houses on the way out that had solar heating was also impressive from an environmental perspective.  The smog today was quite bad though, although nothing like what we had experienced in Beijing and Xian. 

Our canal trip was on a boat with seating for 32, with just Anne and I on board.  It was about a half hour trip – out and back – along a long wide canal, with no particular points of interest en route.  The trip to the embroidery factory was enjoyable, and the skill of the craftswoman was certainly something to behold.  There was as usual many items on sale, and the guide ensured us that the price was appreciating by 10% per year.  He showed us one piece that had been on sale 3 years ago for $10,000 3 years ago, and now it was on sale for about $14,000 – highlighting the 10% appreciation.  I wondered, if it hadn’t  been sold in those 3 years, if it was possibly available for $5,000, and had infact depreciated  by half over the time.  As I didn’t have any particular interest in buying the piece, or have $5,000 in my pocket, even if I did, I kept my views on price appreciation to myself.

The highlight of the day was being left alone in the SuZhou train station with time to work out how the system worked.  This was the highlight because while it has been great having guides everywhere, there were a lot of things that we could have done ourselves.  Having a little bit of time at the train station gave us time to figure out how hard it would be if we were left there by ourselves.  Because there is a reasonable amount of English signage, we figured out that it wouldn’t be too hard to organise ourselves.  Also knowing that all you accommodation can be booked on the internet and that most restaurants in China have picture menus means that you can cover off two of the main tourist activities without too much hassle.

I think I have finally figured out the Chinese traffic signals and road rules.  If you are facing a red light, you have options.  If you are facing a green light, you have options, and you may or may not have more options that someone who is facing a red light.  If you are on a road with arrows indicating the direction, the cars, trucks and buses will follow the arrows, but scooters and bicyclists may or may not, depending on where they are trying to get to.  Cars, trucks and buses accept the scooter and bicyclists right to make things up as it suits them.  Lane markings are irrelevant for all road users.  The two major rules of Chinese road use, are don’t hit anything, and be prepared to concede to everyone.  There is no such thing as having the right of way. 

For pedestrians, red or green men, mean virtually nothing, but may indicate the amount of traffic that will  have the potential to run you down.  All the above rules that apply to cars, buses, truck, scooters and cyclists means that you are on your own as soon as you step off the footpath, so ensure you have eyes in the back of your head and the bottom of your feet.  The main rule for pedestrians seems to be “do nothing fast, particularly not moving or changing direction”.  If you see a local, stick to them like glue when you are crossing the road.

Michael our guide in Beijing told us about the importance of some numbers in Chinese culture, particularly the numbers 6, 8 and 9, which indicate longevity, wealth and an easy life.  We were amazed on the train to and from SuZhou how many new apartment buildings had phone numbers made predominantly of those 3 numbers. 

Anyway, that’s about it for this trip.  We’ve had a great time.  The two week timeframe is really great for a short sharp look around a place and we’ve got a bunch of ideas about other places we can get to for a shorter timeframe, so are looking forward to more of these types of holidays in the future.

Ciao,

David & Anne.

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