Wednesday, May 21, 2014

Day 4 – The Great Wall

Well we’ve been here for 3 days now, and as you will have read, Beijing is big, bustling, smoggy and the traffic is both chaotic and bumper to bumper.  Put 23 million people who are getting rapidly richer by the day into one city and things have got to get pretty steamy, pretty quickly.  Everybody wants a car, but the government is restricting their numbers by having a lottery every month, where you have about a 1 in 120 chance of getting a car.  Imagine if it was open slather, there’d be a heap more cars, and goodness only knows where they’d find to park them or even drive them.  All the cars here are no more than 5 years old – a foreign world to Anne and I, and I’ll bet that Marty couldn’t relate to it either.

Construction here is everywhere, and we’ve seen not whole cities, but whole blocks of apartments being built, say 10 cookie cutter 40-50 story apartments, and then right next door, there will be another big development of 10 more cookie cutter 40-50 story apartment buildings that are also all under construction.  On the road today, we saw a thing called “IT City of the Future”, which was also basically a ghost town – all set to go, but nobody in it just yet. 

Everywhere we go, with one exception you’ll read about shortly, there have been absolute throngs of tourists, and most of them are Chinese, on tour from other parts of China.  They travel in bus tours, and each group has a matching hat, with a guide on a loud speaker gabbling away at them.  In this part of the world, I am a big tall guy, which is a new experience, but as I mentioned before, we are still a bit of a novelty in these parts of the world.

Despite, or because of the smog, the Chinese are making an effort to do things in an environmentally friendly manner.  We’ve seen lots of solar heaters on roofs, we’ve seen LED street lights, an d many of the local Beijing people have electric scooters or bikes.  Michael, our guide, says the Government recognises pollution is a problem, and they are doing what they can to try and improve the situation, but with 1.4 billion people, it’s an uphill / losing battle – propaganda campaign over for today. 

Today is one of the big ticket items on our holiday – we’re off to the Great Wall.  The good news for the day, we see as we leave our hotel room, is that the sky is blue.  This is a real surprise, the previous days have been a smoggy overcast grey – nice warm temperatures, good up close visibility, but always that blanket of smog lingering a few hundred metres away.  Today though the sky is clear blue and it is a beautiful day – yay.  We’re heading away for two days now staying overnight at a rustic Tibetan spa lodge, but more about that later.

Michael and our driver collected us at 9am, after we’d checked out of our room for a night, and we hit the road for The Great Wall.  First stop, you guessed it, a factory tour, this time it’s Jade.  Jade in Chinese culture is the most valuable thing they can possess – more valuable than gold or diamonds.  The tour, of which all of them are fairly brief – say 10 minutes tops, showed us a man carving the jade, making a series of balls inside each other, from one block of Jade – kind of like the Babushka dolls, but the inner ones have no way of getting out.  Watching the craftsmen at work, and seeing the magnificent creations they produce was a great experience, but everyone’s taste is different, and Jade dragons aren’t ours, so none of it is coming home to our place.

The next stop was really enjoyable, and a much more relaxing and cultural experience, the tombs of the Ming Emperors.  Actually, it was just the gardens and the walkway leading in to the tombs, but it was a very peaceful and beautiful gardens, with many statues of the animals and mythical creatures that are such an important part of Chinese culture.  We spent a good hour walking through the gardens.  There were 16 Ming Emperors, and 13 of them are buried in the valley around the gardens we were walking through.  The 3 that didn’t get buried there, generally met with sticky ends, and were done in by there own relatives in their never ending quest for power.  Michael told us about one emperor who was killed because he had no qualified advisors because he kept having them beheaded, but after some questioning from us, he had to concede that his paranoia was probably well founded given the somewhat monotonous regularity with which his forebears had been done in.

Next stop was lunch, which was also at a Jade factory.  Michael’s tour company is very good, as they always take us to very good eating places, and this one just happened to also be in a Jade factory.  The other thing that they are very sure to have us visiting regularly is places with “5 star toilet facilities”.  It is this sort of attention to detail where this assisted touring can add value to us who are so used to doing our own thing on holiday.

Then we were off to The Great Wall.  The sky was still blue and the day really was one out of the box.  Michael told us a bit about the wall, that it was 6,000 miles long, but that there are lots of side sections that make it much longer than that.  The bit that we are visiting first is what we all agreed by mutual consent could be referred to as the Disney Wall, because there is a cable car to take you up to it, and this section has been fully restored to make it easier for people to walk on.  Getting to the cable car meant running the gauntlet of all the stall holders selling all sorts of tourist tat.  To my horror, Anne kept on pointing at things that caught her eye, and although she had no interest in buying them, the sight of a woman showing interest in the wares of a stall holders stall was enough to send them into a frenzy.  The stock conversation went something like this…..”you want”, “no thank you”, “you look when you come back”, “Maybe”, “I remember you”.

The cable car ride was great, and I think we rode in a famous one because there was a sticker in the window saying “Mrs Michelle wife of the American President rode the car to climb the Great Wall on March 23, 2014”.  I looked at all the other cars, but couldn’t see any others with those words in the window.  That was car 56 on the way up.  On the way down, the car behind us, car 26, also had the words on the window, so I have concluded that she rode car 56 one way, and car 26 the other – our moment of fame being over, we alighted to commence our walk of the Great Wall.

The first thing we noticed was that all the tourists up here were foreigners, and most of them were overweight, unfit Americans.  The only Chinese that we saw while we were up on the Wall were the ones who were manning the umbrella covered stalls that were selling drink and tourist tat at regular intervals along the wall.  The other thing that quickly became apparent was that once we had walked 100 metres away from the cable car that we would be one of only a tiny number of people that were doing a decent walk on the wall.

But the thing that we really noticed was how amazing The Wall was, and how amazing the day was that we had been lucky enough to walk on it.  We’ve been to a lot of places, and seen a lot of sights, but this is one of the all-time highlights.  The pictures don’t do the experience justice, but they are the only way that can explain just how good it was.  It’s not just the wall itself, but the beauty of the surroundings that are such a big part of it.  Seeing the other tourists struggle to get to the first tower, we felt really pleased and fortunate that we have the health and fitness to do a decent walk, and get to the highest point that was available to day tourists on The Wall.

The tower that we walked to had a sign on it saying no tourists beyond this point, although we did have to wonder if that really was an official sign as there was another umbrella covered stall about 100m past the no tourists sign, so the person on that stall is either incredibly stupid, or the person on the stall on the tower we got to is incredibly cheeky – I’m banking on the latter.

We had a really great 3 hours on the wall, took some great photos, had a good walk on a beautiful day.  From there we headed to our overnight accommodation, which was a Tibetan Spa Retreat about an hour from the Great Wall, and beside some of the unrestored sections of the wall that enabled us to do a really cool and very alternative walk in the morning.  But that is the subject for tomorrow’s blog post, so now I will sign off.

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